Mont-Saint-Michel: The History of an Extraordinary Island

Location: Mont-Saint-Michel is located in Normandy, near the border with Brittany, about one kilometre off the French coast. The rocky hill rises from the vast tidal flats of a large bay. It is home to a medieval village and an abbey at its summit. A bridge connects Mont-Saint-Michel to the mainland, allowing visitors to reach the island on foot or by shuttle bus.

Significance: Mont-Saint-Michel is one of France’s most famous landmarks and was an important Christian pilgrimage destination during the Middle Ages. The abbey at its summit attracted pilgrims from across Europe. Mont-Saint-Michel and its bay have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. In 1998, the abbey was also recognised as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France”. Today, several million people visit Mont-Saint-Michel each year. However, the large number of visitors presents challenges for the protection and preservation of this historic site.

High and Low Tides: The Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel experiences some of the greatest tidal ranges in Europe. During particularly strong tides, the difference in water level between low and high tide can reach approximately 15 metres. This is due to the unique shape of the English Channel and the bay, which amplifies the tides. At low tide, the sea retreats by as much as 15 kilometres in some areas before flowing back into the bay. Mont-Saint-Michel is completely surrounded by water only during exceptionally high tides. The rapidly rising water and dangerous patches of quicksand can make walking across the tidal flats life-threatening.

Exceptional Tides: Approximately every 18 years, certain astronomical alignments can produce exceptionally strong tides. The combined influence of the Sun, Moon and Earth further increases the already significant fluctuations in water levels. On 21 March 2015, the tidal coefficient reached 119 on a scale from 20 to 120. This coefficient indicates the strength of the tides. The higher the value, the greater the difference between high and low tide generally becomes. This rare event attracted large numbers of visitors to Mont-Saint-Michel. Another period of exceptionally strong tides is expected in March 2033. However, unusually high water levels can also occur between these events.

Habitat for Migratory Birds: The Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel provides an important habitat for numerous animal species. Its extensive tidal flats and salt marshes offer food and sheltered resting places for many birds. Since 1994, the bay has been recognised as a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention. Every year, more than 100,000 waterbirds and wading birds use the bay as a stopover or wintering ground. The small rocky island of Tombelaine is also an important bird sanctuary. Numerous bird species breed there, so the island is closed to visitors during the breeding season.

Name: Mont-Saint-Michel was originally known as “Mont Tombe”. The name may derive from the ancient word “Tumba”, meaning a hill or raised area of land. After the first sanctuary dedicated to the Archangel Michael was built in the 8th century, the hill gradually acquired its present name. During the Middle Ages, the longer name “Mont-Saint-Michel-au-péril-de-la-Mer” was also commonly used. It roughly translates as “Mont-Saint-Michel amid the dangers of the sea”, recalling the hazardous conditions involved in crossing the bay.

Founding Legend: According to legend, the Archangel Michael appeared three times in the dreams of Bishop Aubert of Avranches in 708. In Christianity, Michael is regarded as a warrior against evil. He instructed the bishop to build a church in his honour on the rock. When Aubert initially hesitated, the archangel supposedly pressed his finger into the bishop’s skull during his third appearance, leaving a hole. Aubert then had a small sanctuary built, which, according to tradition, was consecrated on 16 October 709. A skull with a distinctive hole is still preserved in the Basilica of Saint-Gervais in Avranches, where it is venerated as a relic of the bishop.

Construction History: In 966, Benedictine monks founded a monastery on Mont-Saint-Michel. From 1023 onwards, a large church was built at the summit in the Romanesque style, characterised by massive walls and rounded arches. In the 13th century, with the support of the French king, the abbey was expanded with the Gothic complex known as “La Merveille”. Additional buildings and fortifications were added over the following centuries. After the Romanesque choir of the abbey church collapsed in 1421, it was rebuilt in the Gothic style. Construction continued until 1523. As a result, the abbey still combines architectural styles from several different centuries.

Pilgrimage Destination: Pilgrims travelling to Mont-Saint-Michel during the Middle Ages were known as “Miquelots”. They followed an extensive network of pilgrimage routes, staying overnight in monasteries and inns along the way. On the final stretch, many crossed the bay at low tide, often accompanied by local guides familiar with the area. This difficult journey also held religious significance and was regarded as a test of their faith. At the abbey, pilgrims prayed to the Archangel Michael, asking for protection and divine assistance. According to medieval Christian belief, Michael was also responsible for weighing souls. At the Last Judgement, he symbolically weighed the good and bad deeds of the deceased against each other. Many believers therefore also sought his help in securing the salvation of their souls. Numerous pilgrims took home small badges as souvenirs of their pilgrimage.

Bayeux Tapestry: Mont-Saint-Michel appears on the famous Bayeux Tapestry from the 11th century. Despite its name, it is not a woven tapestry but a linen cloth nearly 70 metres long, with a pictorial strip about 50 centimetres high embroidered in coloured wool. Through numerous images and short Latin inscriptions, it tells the story of the events leading to the Norman conquest of England in 1066. The artwork was probably created in England and largely presents the events from the perspective of the Norman conquerors. One scene shows Harold, the future king of England, rescuing two Norman soldiers from dangerous quicksand near Mont-Saint-Michel. Since 2007, the tapestry has been included in UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register.

The Fire of 1204: In 1204, Mont-Saint-Michel was attacked during the struggle between France and England for control of Normandy. Breton troops allied with the French king captured the village at the foot of the rock. However, they were unable to take the fortified abbey. During the attack, the soldiers set fire to the village. The flames spread to the abbey and destroyed large sections of the monastery buildings. The stone vaults largely survived the fire. Reddish discolouration caused by the intense heat can still be seen on some of the stones today.

Hundred Years’ War: During the Hundred Years’ War between France and England, Mont-Saint-Michel remained a French stronghold, even though large parts of Normandy were occupied by English troops. Despite several sieges, the attackers never managed to capture the island. Powerful defensive walls, fortified towers and the difficult tidal flats made every attack challenging. On 17 June 1434, a particularly large assault by English forces ended in failure. During their retreat, the soldiers abandoned two heavy cannons that later became known as the “Michelettes”. The two guns became symbols of the successful resistance against the English.

French Revolution: The French Revolution brought monastic life on Mont-Saint-Michel to a temporary end. Like many other monasteries in France, the abbey was nationalised. In 1791, the last Benedictine monks were forced to leave the monastery. This brought the history of the medieval monastic community to an end after more than 800 years. Parts of the abbey had already been used as a prison before this. From 1793 onwards, the complex served as a state prison, initially holding mainly members of the clergy who opposed the church reforms imposed by the revolutionary government.

Prison: Between 1793 and 1863, an estimated 14,000 people were imprisoned on Mont-Saint-Michel, including ordinary criminals and political prisoners. Conditions were harsh. Many prisoners were forced to work long hours each day in workshops, including weaving and woodworking. Even the former abbey church was temporarily used as a workspace. Because of its isolated location and the difficulty of escaping, the abbey earned the nickname “Bastille of the Seas”. The famous French writer Victor Hugo also criticised the use of the abbey as a prison. The prison was finally closed in 1863.

Saving the Abbey: After the prison closed, the abbey was severely damaged and partly in ruins. In 1872, architect Édouard Corroyer was commissioned to prepare extensive restoration work. Two years later, the abbey was granted protected historic monument status. Over the following decades, specialists stabilised damaged sections of the buildings and restored numerous historic rooms. In 1897, the abbey church also received its neo-Gothic spire, which continues to define the appearance of Mont-Saint-Michel today. The extensive restoration work saved the abbey from further deterioration and laid the foundations for its long-term preservation.

Former Railway Connection: From 1901 to 1938, visitors could reach Mont-Saint-Michel by train. A railway line approximately 10 kilometres long connected the station in the nearby town of Pontorson with the island. Steam trains travelled across the causeway that existed at the time, passing through the bay and stopping directly in front of the defensive walls. As car traffic increased, the railway became less important, and regular services ended in 1938. In 1944, the tracks were dismantled during the German occupation. The line was never reopened after the Second World War.

Second World War: During the Second World War, Mont-Saint-Michel was under German occupation from June 1940 until the end of July 1944. Although the island had little military significance, it became a popular excursion destination for German soldiers. Members of the German occupation administration also visited the site. As Allied forces approached in late July 1944, the German occupiers withdrew. On 1 August, the first American soldiers reached Mont-Saint-Michel without encountering resistance. As a result, the historic site escaped major war damage.

Monastic Life Today: Despite its eventful history, Mont-Saint-Michel remains an active centre of religious life. In 1966, to mark the 1,000th anniversary of the monastery’s foundation, Benedictine monks returned to the abbey for several months for the first time. A permanent monastic community was established there again in 1969. Since 2001, the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem have shaped religious life at the abbey. Their daily routine centres on communal prayers, religious services, work and welcoming pilgrims. Visitors can also attend regular services and prayer times.

Restoring the Island’s Natural Environment: Over the decades, increasing amounts of sand and silt accumulated around Mont-Saint-Michel. The road causeway built in 1879 was a particular problem because it obstructed natural water currents and accelerated the buildup of sediment. To counter this development, a major environmental restoration project was carried out between 2006 and 2015. The old causeway was replaced by a new access route featuring a bridge approximately 760 metres long, allowing water to flow largely freely underneath it again. A controllable weir was also built on the Couesnon River. It stores water from the river and the incoming tide before releasing it in a controlled way at low tide. This helps flush sand and silt away from the area surrounding the rock. The project aims to limit further sediment accumulation and preserve the original island character of Mont-Saint-Michel in the long term.

The Medieval Village: Below the abbey lies a small medieval village with narrow streets, old stone houses and numerous shops. Visitors pass through three successive town gates to reach the main street, known as “Grande Rue”, which leads uphill towards the abbey. Even in the Middle Ages, merchants and craftspeople lived here, primarily serving the many pilgrims. At certain times, the village had as many as 400 residents. Today, only around 20 people live here. Nevertheless, the municipality still has its own town hall, parish church and small cemetery. During the day, large crowds of visitors often fill the narrow streets. The defensive walls, which visitors can walk along, offer sweeping views across the bay.

Abbey Church: The abbey church stands at the highest point of Mont-Saint-Michel and is one of the most impressive buildings in the entire complex. Because the steep rock offered very little space, medieval builders constructed four large vaulted chambers to support parts of the church. Inside, two distinct architectural styles come together. The Romanesque nave feels particularly imposing, with its massive pillars and rounded arches. By contrast, the Gothic choir, built later, appears considerably brighter thanks to its tall windows and slender columns. At the top of the spire stands a 4.5-metre-high statue of the Archangel Michael made of gilded copper. Created by French sculptor Emmanuel Frémiet, it depicts the archangel defeating a dragon with his sword. The dragon symbolises evil.

The West Terrace: The present-day west terrace in front of the abbey church was created after a fire in 1776. The three western sections of the Romanesque nave were so badly damaged that they were subsequently demolished. In 1784, the church received a new facade in the Neoclassical style, which contrasts sharply with the medieval sections of the building. The terrace offers sweeping views across the bay towards the coasts of Brittany and Normandy.

Notre-Dame-sous-Terre Chapel: The small church of Notre-Dame-sous-Terre dates from the 10th century and is the oldest surviving part of the abbey. Its name translates as “Our Lady Underground” and refers to Mary, the mother of Jesus. Originally, the church stood freely on the rock before being covered over during construction of the larger abbey church. Today, it lies deep within the complex and supports part of the nave above it. Its two narrow naves, massive stone walls and brick arches offer a glimpse into the monastery’s earliest days. Hidden for many years, the church was restored in the 20th century and can be visited on special guided tours.

La Merveille: The Gothic building complex known as “La Merveille” was constructed between 1211 and 1228 on the northern side of the abbey. Its name translates as “The Marvel” and reflects the extraordinary achievements of its medieval builders. Some of the granite used in its construction came from the Chausey Islands in the English Channel. The heavy stone blocks were transported to Mont-Saint-Michel by ship and then hauled up the steep rock. The complex consists of two interconnected sections, each with three storeys, built directly against the steep rock face. Powerful buttresses and massive walls support the rooms above. The lowest floor contained storage rooms and an area where poor pilgrims were cared for. Above these were a grand reception hall for important guests and a workspace for the monks. The top floor houses the refectory and cloister. Through their clever arrangement of the rooms, the builders managed to fit the monastery’s essential facilities into an extremely limited space.

The Cloister: One of the most beautiful parts of the abbey is the Gothic cloister on the uppermost level of “La Merveille”. At its centre lies a small open-air garden surrounded by covered walkways. These are supported by a total of 137 slender columns arranged in two slightly offset rows. This creates constantly changing perspectives. Here, the monks could pray and meditate in peace while moving between the monastery’s various rooms. Particularly striking are the intricately decorated arches and the large opening on the western side, which provides sweeping views across the bay. Originally, another section containing additional monastic rooms was planned for this location, but it was never built.

Medieval Manuscripts: During the Middle Ages, the abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel was an important centre of education and learning. The monks painstakingly copied books by hand, writing their texts on parchment made from animal skins. They decorated particularly valuable manuscripts with elaborate illustrations and colourful initial letters. Alongside religious texts, the monks also studied works on history, philosophy, astronomy and other sciences. One large room in the abbey is now known as the scriptorium. However, it has not been conclusively established whether the medieval writing workshop was actually located there. Around 200 medieval manuscripts from the abbey have survived and are preserved in the municipal library of Avranches. The town’s “Scriptorial” museum explores the history of these books and displays selected works.

Treadwheel: The enormous wooden treadwheel, sometimes called a squirrel wheel, measures approximately 6 metres in diameter. It was installed in 1818, when the abbey was being used as a prison. Up to 6 prisoners had to walk inside the wheel to set it in motion. As the wheel turned, it wound up a rope that pulled a loaded cart up a steep ramp. This system could transport food and working materials weighing up to 2 tonnes. The wheel is located in the monks’ former ossuary and can still be seen during a tour of the abbey.

Saint-Aubert Chapel: The small Saint-Aubert Chapel dates from the 15th century and stands on a rocky outcrop on the northwestern side of Mont-Saint-Michel, outside the defensive walls. It was built in honour of Bishop Aubert and commemorates the foundation of the first sanctuary on the rock. Because of its secluded location, it is one of the island’s lesser-known buildings. The chapel can only be reached at low tide and is normally closed to visitors. Its position directly beside the sea makes it particularly vulnerable to damage from wind, water and salt.

Feast of the Archangel Michael: Every year on 29 September, Mont-Saint-Michel celebrates the Feast of the Archangel Michael. It is one of the island’s most important religious celebrations and attracts numerous pilgrims. Special religious services and prayers take place in the abbey church and the village church of Saint-Pierre. Depending on the programme, processions may also be organised, with worshippers walking together through the village. The celebrations can extend over several days, connecting centuries-old religious traditions with contemporary monastic life.

British Twin: Off the coast of Cornwall in southwestern England lies the island of St Michael’s Mount, which bears a striking resemblance to Mont-Saint-Michel. It is also a tidal island and can be reached on foot along a paved causeway at low tide. In the late 11th century, the island became the property of the French abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel. In 1135, monks began building a small monastery there under the authority of the French abbey. The complex was later converted into a fortified castle, where members of an aristocratic family still live today. A medieval chapel also stands at the summit. Terraced gardens containing numerous subtropical plants extend across the steep slopes.

The Famous Omelette: One of Mont-Saint-Michel’s best-known specialities is the omelette created by innkeeper Annette Poulard. She and her husband had been running an inn since 1873. In 1888, they moved into the building that now houses the famous “La Mère Poulard” inn. Because guests often arrived at different times depending on the tides, Annette Poulard developed a special type of omelette that could be prepared quickly and was particularly filling. To make it, fresh eggs are beaten vigorously and then cooked with butter in a pan over an open wood fire. The result is an exceptionally light and fluffy omelette that remains particularly soft inside. This speciality made Annette Poulard famous far beyond France. Even today, the omelette is prepared in the traditional way at her historic inn.

Salt Marsh Lamb: One of the region’s distinctive specialities is salt marsh lamb, known in France as “Agneau de pré-salé”. The animals graze on the extensive salt marshes surrounding Mont-Saint-Michel, which are flooded by the sea during particularly high tides. There, they feed on grasses and herbs adapted to the salty soil. This special diet gives the meat its characteristic, aromatic flavour.